Camping with sled dogs in December -- Southern Brooks Range

Lots of snow ... but the weather was relatively warm -- something I had worried about as we had had two weeks of 40+ below zero in Fairbanks. What an extraordinary experience! I flew into Bettles on December 4th to dog-sit 19 huskies for a week, after which my gracious host took me on a camping trip to 12-mile Lake in the southern Brooks Range with 11 incredible animals.

While many of you think living in a "dry" cabin outside of Fairbanks is a challenging lifestyle, the cabin in Bettles goes a step beyond -- melting snow for water, a wood stove as the only heat, and an unplowed access road. I learned to split wood, light the stove every morning (one morning it was 28F inside when I got up), carry-in snow in a large washtub, and store enough water for cooking, washing, drinking, and the dogs. Although it was 20 below zero one night, the rest of the time it did not get colder than a couple of degrees below and was around 20 above the last few days. Spending as much time as I did outdoors, I was very grateful for the mild temperatures.

Bettles Airport

The access road to the cabin with the dog yard at the end.

The cabin with our dogsleds in the foreground.

Sunset from the loft window -- this was about as much color as I saw given the fact it was overcast and snowed every day.

The dog yard.

Cleaning up the yard and feeding the dogs was a daily challenge. They dig holes which then get covered by snow -- this makes walking around the equivalent of navigating an obstacle course. Turning your ankle with a 5-gallon bucket of water in one hand and a bucket of food in the other could have serious consequences. The cabin is remote and carrying a cell phone around is of no use. You could lie out there for days if you became immobilized. I guess you just can't think about things like that. Life requires a good deal more focus than most of us exercise in day-to-day living. In the above photo, the dogs are all excited as Zak is making his way back home.

This is Mahal

-- a fine looking dog and one of my favorites (actually they were all pretty much my favorites). I've never met a nicer bunch of dogs.

Chica Rica in her house.

... and the ever excitable Comatose.

The day before we took the dogs, we snowmachined out to the lake to groom the trail, drop some equipment off, and smooth the campsite. This was about a 25-mile run and the first time I had been on a snowmachine. On top of the sled you may notice the dreaded snowshoes. I found it difficult to get them on when on either side of the trail the snow was up to my armpits, I was in a bulky parka and bib, my fingers were freezing, and the whole system of tightening them seemed to be beyond my comprehension. A low-point on the trip. I was relieved the next day when Zak forgot to pack them.

Hooking up the dogs with Chica and Solita in lead.

A break to eat snow on the trail.

It gets dark by about 3:00pm and snow was falling.

Our camp

... with the "Arctic Oven" tent and a snow melter in the background. I learned that winter camping with dogs is one whole lot of work!

Mahal enjoying the good life!

The tent has a stove inside (hence the Arctic Oven). It gets very hot, but if you open the flap you freeze -- one of the joys of winter camping I guess. The goat skins were a nice touch.

The dogs the next morning.

In the middle of the night the dogs got loose -- it is not exactly clear to me how this happened -- but they all came barreling into the tent knocking everything over and stepping on my head. Zak's only comment was unprintable.

Getting ready to head back.

Yours truly on the front sled.

The fantastic team that made it all possible -- I love these dogs!!!!

... and many many thanks to Zak.