The way back ...

The Aleutian Islands have been described as fog-bound and inhospitable.  After our enchanting 7 hours of (mostly) sun, it looked like this as we left.

We did see more whales -- both humpbacked and orcas.  It was interesting to have visited some of the webcam sites I had often viewed in the winter from Florida.  Dutch Ballyhoo is one site where the weather is frequently awesomely bad ...  Some of the webcams from Alaska are spectacular.  Check them out at http://akweathercams.faa.gov/sitelist.php 

Approaching Akutan

You may have noticed the absence of trees in the Aleutians.  With the exception of some stunted willows, the vast majority of the chain is destitute of native trees. This is because the islands and some of the sites on the Alaska Peninsula, much like the Falklands (Malvinas) and other islands of similar latitudes, experience such strong winds that taller trees are vulnerable to snapping off (Wikipedia).

Akutan has a population of 859.  The sign on the dock gives you some idea of the level of sophistication.  Don't get me wrong -- this is not a criticism.  I loved it.

Characteristic of many of these remote islands, there were two churches ...

 (one Russian Orthodox), a school, and a colorful bar.

On return to Cold Bay (where we were nearly left on the way out), the weather had improved and you can see the snow-covered peaks we missed on our earlier visit.

The interior of King Cove

The next stop on the Peninsula was King Cove (it was dark here on the way out).  King Cove is the home of the Girls' volleyball team that saved us from being left at Cold Bay.  Their trip to Dutch Harbor was successful as they won 2 of their 3 games.  I got to know the 3 teachers on the trip and they graciously drove me around to see some of the sites during the hour the ferry stopped here.  

We drove out to the airport passing serene vistas on the way.  Waterfalls ...

 valleys, and ...

 a stunning lake.

The only trees in King Cove (this is where the teachers live).

They pointed out the amazing juxtaposition of these signs -- showing me where the bears come up a depression right next to this store.

The ferry as we drove back towards the port.

The weather had also improved when we visited Chignik again -- more beautiful scenery.

It is not possible to capture the grandeur of some of these sites in photos.  In a way it is wonderful that they are so remote and, thus, less developed and infrequently visited (although the residents may not all feel that way).

A friendly resident of Chignik with Bob (a fellow traveler from Homer).

A view of the port of Chignik as we head back toward Kodiak and then Homer.

Getting close to Homer we began to see more boats in the water.

Approaching the docks at Homer ...

and finally, a view of Bishop's Beach at the end of the journey.

Unalaska and Dutch Harbor

Unalaska is situated on two separate islands in the Aleutian Chain -- Unalaska Island and Amaknak Island.  Dutch Harbor, on Amaknak, is a major commercial fishing port and probably more well- known for the Discovery Channel's reality show The Deadliest Catch.  The islands are located where the Pacific Ocean and the Bering Sea meet, and The Bridge to the Other Side joins them.  

To see a beautiful picture of Unalaska in the snow (and obtain more information about this remote location) check out the city's link http://unalaska-ak.us/.  The ferry runs once a month between mid-April and the first week in October from Homer to Dutch Harbor. Transportation otherwise is by plane with a one way ticket to Anchorage costing upwards of $690.00.  You definitely wouldn't want to get stuck out there.

Seven hours is not really long enough to explore this extraordinary place but with a good guide you can hit many of the highlights.  The drive along the Unalaskan coast was rich with both sea and bird life.  We saw sea otters, seals, and cormorants in relatively large numbers.

A view of the airstrip

A characteristic scene in Unalaska with the ubiquitous crab pots in the foreground.

Snow-covered peaks as seen from the Unalaska side

The Sitka Spruce Park

The Russians planted Sitka Spruce in 1805 along Biorka Drive.  These tall gnarly trees are said to be originals.  It is supposedly the oldest recorded afforestation project in North America.

Concrete pillbox ...

According to The Lonely Planet Guide, Unalaska and Dutch Harbor can be characterized by two things as you leave the ferry terminal:  Concrete pillboxes from World War II, and ...

Crab pots

You do see a lot of both, but the king crab fishing industry has declined considerably over the past 20 years or so.  More than 80% of seafood currently processed here is pollack.  For those of you who don't know, pollack is turned into fish sticks and imitation crab in the fish processing plants on the island.  

Here, for fans, is one of the boats that compete in The Deadliest Catch TV series.  The Cornelia Marie was the favorite of the teachers we were with at Cold Bay (you know, the ones with us on the bus when we were nearly left by the ferry).  They were all really into the TV show.  (There is not, I might add, a lot to do in these places.)

Close-up of the Cornelia Marie

Mt. Ballyhoo

Mt. Ballyhoo is home to the highest coastal battery ever constructed in the US -- nearly 1,000 ft above the Bering Sea.  There are a lot of concrete observation posts, command stations, tunnels and other structures built to withstand earthquakes and 100 mph winds.

I was really more interested in the spectacular views from the top of this mountain, however.  Believe it or not, we saw humpback whales spouting (with binoculars, of course) -- but these were my first whales.  The setting was magnificent!

 

The view of the harbor on the way down from Mt. Ballyhoo.

Church of the Holy Ascension

This is the oldest Russian-built church still standing in Alaska.  It was built in 1825 and enlarged in 1894.  We were fortunate in being able to visit the church but photos were not allowed inside.  It was rich with beautiful icons and artwork.

Close-up view of the church

The small graveyard adjacent to the church.

The drive up the coast of Unalaska.

... heading back toward Akutan

I loved this place -- it is somewhere I could consider living for awhile (maybe working in a fish processing plant).  We were very fortunate to have such good weather in October -- apparently it is rather rare.  I would like to send a warm welcome to Unalaska Newbie who has listed herself as a follower.  I hope I have done Unalaska and Dutch Harbor justice even though we were only there seven hours.  Any feedback would be appreciated. 

The next post will be the way back ...

The Last Ferry to Dutch Harbor

... sounds a bit like a cheap mystery novel, doesn't it?  Well, it actually is the last ferry to Dutch Harbor until spring of next year.  The only way in or out of the communities on the Alaska Peninsula and the Aleutian Islands in winter is by plane.

The vehicle component of the ferry was full both going out of and returning to Homer, but there were only 5 of us continuing on round-trip -- 4 resident in Alaska and 1 woman from New Mexico who has done this October trip every year since the Alaska Marine Highway System started running it.  

We boarded the Tustumena just after 11:30 pm (an hour late) on October 6th in a cold rain. Rain and mist persisted during the 5 days out to Dutch Harbor with the weather becoming nastiest at False Pass -- the first stop on the "Chain".  

One guy from Homer and I were hoping for just a taste of the roughest of seas as we approached the Bering Sea but when we expressed this wish to a crew member he threatened to put us off the ferry on Akutan (the smallest of the Aleutians) just so we wouldn't jinx the ship.  So while we did experience 50 knot winds, the waves were relatively small.

Kodiak, the first stop on the Alaskan Peninsula, is just over 9 hours from Homer.  We passed stunning views on the peninsula that (with the Aleutian Islands) boasts 46 active volcanos. Most of them were shrouded in mist, however.  You will notice that these photos are grey.  We did have a bit more sun on the way back so photos in the next post will be more colorful.

As this is southwest Alaska, fall colors were still prominent -- a bit hard to appreciate in the absence of much sun.

Kodiak harbor

Holy Resurrection Church 

The church serves the oldest Russian Orthodox parish in the New World (established in Kodiak in 1794).  

The interior is strikingly beautiful.  There are no benches in these churches as one is expected to stand or kneel in the presence of God.

Leaving Kodiak we head for Chignik, nearly 7 hours away.

The dock at Chignik

This is the prettiest of the harbors where the ferry docks. Even in the mist the waterfalls and the colors can be appreciated.   Although you can get off the ferry and walk around for an hour or so, most businesses have closed for the winter.  Chignik is a case in point -- it has a bakery famous for providing passengers with excellent pastries.  After a search of the fishing village we were finally informed by a local resident that it has shut down for the season.

The October trip of the Tustumena is known as the "pumpkin run".  The Safeway supermarket chain donates pumpkins to be delivered to children at all of the ferry stops on the last run of the season.  Here you see residents of Chignik -- very happy with their pumpkins.

More clouds and mist on the way to Sand Point --  over 9 hours from Chignik

We arrived at Sand Point about 10:30 pm on October 8th and on the return trip arrival was 11:00 pm.  Sand Point, therefore, was the only stop we never saw in daylight.  Here is the ferry from the dock.

A scene from the pumpkin delivery

An expectant pumpkin recipient

Approaching Cold Bay at 9:45 am on October 9th

The pier at Cold Bay.  You really can't see it very well, but there is a phone booth just beyond the pier.  It is in the middle of nowhere, but it actually works.  It really looks bizarre -- like something out of a Monty Python sketch.

The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) headquarters on Cold Bay

Izembek National Wildlife Refuge

This 417,533 acres of land is home to nearly the entire North American brant population of 135,000 birds in spring and fall.  They feed on large eelgrass beds in the Izembek Lagoon.  We saw clouds of them preparing to fly out.  The lagoon is 11 miles from Cold Bay but the US Fish & Wildlife Service runs a bus out to the lagoon when the ferry is in port.  

Being on a ferry, rather than a tour, presents some risks to passengers.  The crew, hearing that we were facing deteriorating weather made the decision to leave earlier than planned -- with no consideration for the fact that 8 of us were out with the Fish and Wildlife people.  Luckily, there was a girls' volleyball team on their way to a game in Dutch Harbor and their teachers were with us on the bus.  The girls said "You can't leave without our teachers!!!" ... so they lowered the gangway again and waited for us.  It would have been serious (and expensive) to have been left at Cold Bay.  The experience made me paranoid about straying from the ferry at subsequent stops.

A view from the lagoon

The village of False Pass -- the first stop in the Aleutians

That is a store at the end of the pier.  It was blowing so hard they did not lower the gangway here -- only allowing cars to exit and enter.

The worst weather we had was around False Pass and Akutan.  We arrived at Akutan while it was still dark but on our return we were able to visit.  I will cover it in the next post.

When we finally arrived in Dutch Harbor on the morning of the 10th, we were surprised with an unusually beautiful day.

Dutch Harbor and Unalaska are beautiful.  

The last ferry has arrived!  We will have nearly 7 hours to explore (and buy Deadliest Catch memorabilia).  More to come ...