2010 Yukon Quest: pairs and portraits of dogs (mostly)

The 2010 Yukon Quest, a 1,000 mile sled dog race run between Fairbanks and Whitehorse, Canada, began this year in Fairbanks on February 6th.  It is not over yet but the top ten mushers have arrived in Dawson City, Canada, the mid-point of the race.  Given the mandatory 36-hour rest period in Dawson, I thought this would be a good time to post some photos from the race start.  (Besides, there will be nothing much going on on-line until the first musher can leave tomorrow morning.)

The dogs are anticipating a great race...  

It will also be a highly competitive race.  Of the 24 mushers, 2 have won the Quest a total of 7 times since 2002 (Lance Mackey 4x and Hans Gatt 3x), and Sonny Lindner won the first Yukon Quest in 1984.  Three others have come in 2nd (Hugh Neff, Ken Anderson, and Zack Steer with Hans Gatt placing 2nd 2x).  There are also mushers from Switzerland and Belgium participating.

... as are good Fairbanks friends Jess and Ann.

A classic set-up for moving dogs around.  

The dogs here are pretty calm, but it is still a couple of hours before the race.  There was a pancake breakfast for mushers and fans adjacent to the staging area for the race.  By the time we arrived, they were out of everything but the pancakes -- they were good, though.

Here Lance Mackey, everyone's favorite musher, is getting gear together for the race.  These mushers have to have incredible focus -- a thousand miles is a long distance.

An example of a dog sled.

Here a team is being led from the staging area to the race start -- about a quarter of a mile.

The teams are hooked to an ATV to hold them back.  Handlers could never restrain a dog team for this distance at the start of a race.  The dogs are unstoppable...  We stayed back from the starting line to be able to get closer to the teams.  This was a good opportunity for photos, and I hope these give you an idea of the variation that exists in the "Alaskan husky".

I have some tricks up my sleeve!

Is it time yet???

Reflecting on races past...

We are excited!!!

Uh, patience is a virtue!

Well, we've done a lot of training so we think we're ready.

This is serious -- no fooling around!

We are clearly the most elegant dogs here ... and look at our outfits!

... but I'm adorable.

Two "lead dogs" waiting for their turn to go.

They are still pretty calm...

Lance Mackey at the start surrounded by adoring fans 

(myself included, of course).

Lance (number 11) and his dogs are ready to go...

The dogs are the real athletes of these races.  When not racing, they are calm and friendly.  Who wouldn't love these dogs?

I will report the results as soon as they are available.  I know you all can't wait!!!!

Winter solstice in the land of real winter

On December 21st the sun rose at 10:59 am and set at 2:41 pm leaving 3 hours and 42 minutes of daylight in Fairbanks.  Compare this with 21 hours 49 minutes on the Summer Solstice.  I stayed around the cabin from Winter Solstice though the end of the year to reflect on my experiences over the past year and spend some quiet time in solitude.  This was not difficult as all of my friends had gone away over the Christmas and New Years holidays. 

The temperature varied from 0 to minus 32F but the first days of 2010 have seen the temperature drop to minus 35 - 40 in Goldstream Valley.  I did go for a walk each day accompanied by my trusty camera.  Most of these photos were taken at 1:30 pm. -- later or earlier than this would have required use of a flash (or a better camera).

 

The Alaska Range with ice fog over the city taken from Ballaine Hill

This photo of the Alaska Range is taken from the top of Willow Run on one of my walks.

Snow-laden willows

Moose off Willow Run near the intersection with Goldstream Road.

I have made peace with the squirrels and no longer attempt to chase them from the bird feeder.  How could anyone begrudge them sunflower seeds when it is minus 30 degrees outside?  Besides, they really are quite cute.

Birches with snow in arctic pink sunlight

Moonrise on December 30th at 1:30 pm looking east on Goldstream Road.

Another view to the east from near the cabin.

Home sweet home.  If you look closely you can see the electric cord running from the house to the car.  I have had to leave it plugged in all night for the last few nights as the temperature has been around minus 35F.  Just a fact of life so near the arctic circle I guess.

Yours truly returning from one of my walks at minus 25F.  Hard to imagine, isn't it?

Happy New Year to all and I hope to see those of you in Florida in March.

Chena Hot Springs

Today (12/3) in Fairbanks the sun rose at 10:25 am and will set at 2:55 pm.  The length of the day will be 4 hours and 29 minutes.  We will continue to lose a few minutes a day until December 21st.  On the other hand, the moon is full and very bright.  With the reflection on the snow, nighttime can seem brighter than day.  Long shadows  on Willow Run Road Road are a little chilling.

Sunset at about 2:45 pm November 28th on Goldstream Road

Chena (pronounced Cheena) Hot Springs was discovered in 1905 and was a favorite with gold miners.  It is a natural outdoor hot springs with a temperature of 105 F in the rock lake pictured above.  Chena Hot Springs road, the only access, ends about 60 miles from Fairbanks at the Chena Hot Springs Resort.  

As you can see, with steam rising in the cold air, it is difficult to get a good photo.  It is quite magical to stand neck-deep in the lake with your hair frozen like a helmet above the surface.  

The spring is open from 7:00 am to midnight and is particularly lovely at night.  As the steam clears in the occasional breeze, you can see the moon and stars -- no northern lights on the night we were there, though.

It is a good idea to spend the night here as the 60-mile drive back to town is a challenge after soaking in the sulfuric waters for an hour or so.  I have done it both ways now and staying overnight is best. This is the reception area of the resort.

The dining room is rustic and has pretty good food -- also interesting drinks like the Nutty Alaskan and Aurora Borealis Martini.

The entire resort is powered using low temperature binary geothermal power generated from the hot springs.  For a description of the technology check out the following link

 http://www.popularmechanics.com/science/earth/4245896.html.  They operate a large greenhouse on the premises that produces all of the lettuce and tomatoes used in salads for the restaurant.  

Close-up of tomato plants

They produce the salad greens and tomatoes using hydroponics.  Fresh salads at -30 F in mid-winter alone are worth the trip.

They also have a year-round ice museum that was formerly known as the Ice Hotel.  There is a bar where they serve appletinis in ice martini glasses.

Crossing a bridge across this stream takes us to the sled-dog kennels

It is a toss-up whether sled-dog team or moose crossing signs are more prevalent around Fairbanks.  I think I have actually seen more sled-dog signs.

Here is a snow-covered sculpture of Balto -- the sled-dog who became famous in the serum run to Nome to fight the diphtheria epidemic in 1925.  The Iditarod commemorates this event.

The sled-dog kennel from a distance

 ... and close-up

This is Ernie, one of two goats at the hot springs resort.  The other one is in there too but it is kind of dark (I forgot his name but it might be Burt).  The staff claims these are the only non-productive elements of their operation.  A little hard to see in their igloo, but they are very cute.

A photo of the Alaska Range from (you guessed it) Ballaine Hill 10:00 am a few days ago.

The way back ...

The Aleutian Islands have been described as fog-bound and inhospitable.  After our enchanting 7 hours of (mostly) sun, it looked like this as we left.

We did see more whales -- both humpbacked and orcas.  It was interesting to have visited some of the webcam sites I had often viewed in the winter from Florida.  Dutch Ballyhoo is one site where the weather is frequently awesomely bad ...  Some of the webcams from Alaska are spectacular.  Check them out at http://akweathercams.faa.gov/sitelist.php 

Approaching Akutan

You may have noticed the absence of trees in the Aleutians.  With the exception of some stunted willows, the vast majority of the chain is destitute of native trees. This is because the islands and some of the sites on the Alaska Peninsula, much like the Falklands (Malvinas) and other islands of similar latitudes, experience such strong winds that taller trees are vulnerable to snapping off (Wikipedia).

Akutan has a population of 859.  The sign on the dock gives you some idea of the level of sophistication.  Don't get me wrong -- this is not a criticism.  I loved it.

Characteristic of many of these remote islands, there were two churches ...

 (one Russian Orthodox), a school, and a colorful bar.

On return to Cold Bay (where we were nearly left on the way out), the weather had improved and you can see the snow-covered peaks we missed on our earlier visit.

The interior of King Cove

The next stop on the Peninsula was King Cove (it was dark here on the way out).  King Cove is the home of the Girls' volleyball team that saved us from being left at Cold Bay.  Their trip to Dutch Harbor was successful as they won 2 of their 3 games.  I got to know the 3 teachers on the trip and they graciously drove me around to see some of the sites during the hour the ferry stopped here.  

We drove out to the airport passing serene vistas on the way.  Waterfalls ...

 valleys, and ...

 a stunning lake.

The only trees in King Cove (this is where the teachers live).

They pointed out the amazing juxtaposition of these signs -- showing me where the bears come up a depression right next to this store.

The ferry as we drove back towards the port.

The weather had also improved when we visited Chignik again -- more beautiful scenery.

It is not possible to capture the grandeur of some of these sites in photos.  In a way it is wonderful that they are so remote and, thus, less developed and infrequently visited (although the residents may not all feel that way).

A friendly resident of Chignik with Bob (a fellow traveler from Homer).

A view of the port of Chignik as we head back toward Kodiak and then Homer.

Getting close to Homer we began to see more boats in the water.

Approaching the docks at Homer ...

and finally, a view of Bishop's Beach at the end of the journey.