"April is the cruelest month"--T.S. Eliot

While it is true that today is a balmy 60 degrees, spring comes very slowly to Fairbanks.  The photo immediately below was taken from my window this morning, April 26 -- and when I went out yesterday to put up a block of suet for the birds I sank to mid-thigh.  Sometimes I wonder if the snow will ever be completely gone.

 

Usually these snowshoe hares go by way too fast to catch a photo, but I got lucky.

This was taken nearly 2 weeks ago when the temperature was 34 F -- clearly Fairbanksans are desperate for the sun and warmer weather.  The husky is looking on as though he wouldn't mind a ride in the little MG.

Birds continue to arrive

... and red squirrels have invaded the bird feeder

(I am pretty sure it is a red squirrel even though it looks gray)

Gray Jays like to feed at as well as under the suet block, as much gets knocked onto the snow.

The snowshoe hare is beginning to change from white to brown and is well-camouflaged in the less-than-pristine snow.

Taking advantage of a bird seed mishap...

 

Two Trumpeter Swans have arrived at Creamer's Field. 

This refuge is like Potter's Marsh outside of Anchorage multiplied by 1,000.  It is a great place to spend a lazy Sunday morning -- and much of Fairbanks was out here today.

The Trumpeter Swans were feeding and preening

(they are so much bigger than the geese)

... and Canada Geese continue to arrive

Aren't they gorgeous?

This shows the average arrival date for migratory birds at Creamer's Field

(it is readable if you enlarge it)

We are anxiously awaiting many more.  May should be a big month...

When is Spring?

The Vernal Equinox occurred on March 20th this year.  Often considered the beginning of Spring -- forget that in Fairbanks.  There are actually a number of indicators here that supposedly signal Spring has arrived.  

In some northern states of the lower 48, the drumming of Hairy Woodpeckers is considered a sign of spring.   I would have to say that is not enough for me here.  Although they have been drumming tentatively for about a month, it sure still looked like winter.

As you can see, on April 13th the entry drive to the cabin was down to earth.  This was not a natural phenomenon, as the landlord had just plowed Willow Run Road and the entrance to all of our cabins.  There is still plenty of snow -- but daytime temperatures have been hovering around 35 degrees and it hasn't been below 0 at night for a week or so.  Snow is, however, forecast for the next 5 days.   

The most obvious sign of changing seasons is the light.  The sun rises at 6:18 am and sets at 9:26 pm.  We have 15 hours and 7 minutes of daylight and gain 6 minutes and 52 seconds each day.

When I complained about Willow Run Road early on, Ann told me I would be sorry when the "snow road" was gone.  I think you can begin to see what she meant -- a dirt road on permafrost is never going to be very smooth.

This is the intersection of Willow Run and the main highway, Goldstream Road.

As a reminder, this is the same intersection on March 5th when we took off for Anchorage --

so there has been some improvement!

Goldstream creek (for which the Valley is named) looking west 

This is part of a major sled dog trail network in winter, but spring is clearly on the way here with the ice slowly disappearing.  

... Goldstream creek looking east

Creamer's Field Migratory Waterfowl Refuge

On April 10th the headline in the Fairbanks News Miner was Geese are Back.  Two Canada geese landed at Creamer's Field at about 11:15 am Thursday April 9th.  Several lanes had been plowed in the field for their arrival.  The article declared that Spring is here.  

The average date of arrival for the past five years has been April 8 -- so they are a day late (and I hope not a dollar short).  This is big news in Fairbanks.  The city even has a celebration when thousands of sandhill cranes arrive at this refuge sometime in May.  Apparently they can stay for months.

As you can see, there were more than two Canada geese on April 13th

Moving on from one "sign" of spring to another...

A universal sign spring has arrived is Breakup

The Nenana Ice Classic is a typically Alaskan phenomenon.  A tripod is planted two feet into the Tanana River ice between the highway bridge and the railroad bridge at Nenana (about 65 miles south of Fairbanks).  It is 300 feet from shore and connected to a clock that stops as the ice goes out.  We passed it when we drove to Anchorage.   

In 1917 railroad engineers bet $800 guessing when the river ice would break up.  Last year, in the classic's 92nd year, the winners shared the prize money of $303,895.  You have to guess the day and time to the minute to win.  On the last day possible to enter, I guessed April 27th at 3:13 pm, but that is probably too early for this year.  It costs $2.50 to enter and it is so much more fun than the lottery.

There is LOTS of information on this if you are interested (and why wouldn't you be?) on their website: www.nenanaakiceclassic.com.

The Chena River is certainly looking less than solid, but breakup is not yet here.  The ice thickness in February was 22 inches.  The thickness at Nenana was 46.75 in. on April 9th this year  -- I guess it will have to really warm up for breakup to happen by April 27th.

Another sign of Spring in Fairbanks is the Beat Beethoven 5k run to support the Fairbanks symphony orchestra.  It was last Saturday morning and there were over 700 participants (of which I was one).  The idea is to finish the race before the end of Beethoven's 5th -- which is about 30 minutes in length.  

The run is on the university campus and there is one really long steep hill (which I walked) along with several icy patches to make it more challenging.  There are cars stationed all along the route with Beethoven's 5th, played by the Fairbanks symphony, blaring.  I came in 275th out of 330 women (and girls) in the race, but I was 2nd in my age class (of course there were only 4 of us).  Needless to say I did not beat Beethoven to the finish but I did beat him a ways past the 2 mile mark.

I leave you with another photo of the Alaska Range from the top of Ballaine Hill.

Wishing you all a wonderful Spring

Dry cabin living

I thought some of you might be interested in a few elements of dry cabin living.  The photos below are separated into 3 sections: 1) Logistics, 2) Leisure activities, and 3) Around the cabin.

1)  Logistics:  

Our mail boxes are on the main road, Goldstream, just over a mile and a half from the cabin.  It is curious that there is no order to the boxes (i.e., the mail carrier must more or less memorize which addresses are where).  There is also no standardization of  boxes in terms of size or shape, and many are in poor repair -- for example, on mine the door is only hinged on one side (the other being completely broken) and therefore it must be wedged at an angle to keep the snow out.  In addition, after having been here for nearly 3 months, I am still getting mail for the former tenant forwarded from her previous address. 

 

This is the Fox spring where I get water -- about 15 minutes from my house.

As you can see, it gets pretty icy.  The ice built up one time to about 4 feet above the grid.  Most people use 5 gallon containers.  I can lift them but they are heavy.   With all the ice and the rather steep downhill grade back to the car (which also gets icy), I have chosen to make more trips using the 2 gallon containers pictured above.  There is no way to fill any of the containers without freezing your fingers.  

Doing dishes is what I like least.  One tends to become compulsive about conserving water -- and that is somewhat incompatible with getting dishes clean.  It is a two-step process that requires you to heat water as well.  That is a 5 gallon container on the counter.  The water drains into a bucket under the sink which has to be emptied outside before it gets too full.  The bucket is heavy and it is a disaster if you forget to empty it.  We use biodegradable detergent as the animals will feed on the residue left after the water is absorbed by the snow/soil.

The trash transfer station in Fox is not so bad and there are usually a lot of ravens around.  I drive my trash here (or to one near the university) about every 3 days.  You cannot put trash outside because of the animals.  In this case it is mainly dogs (not bears) that get into it as there are many free-ranging canines about.  With the cabin being so small, one resists filling it with trash.

Laundry and showering are done at the B&C Laundry (I sometimes shower at the university as well). Last week something went wrong with their propane tanks and there were no dryers for 5 days.  Surprisingly,  there are not many laundromats in Fairbanks.

The Goldstream General Store is an alternative for both showers and laundry, but I have been told the water is very hard and the driers very expensive.  It is a quaint little store, though, and it is right next to Ivory Jack's (where I went to hear Hobo Jim).  The store is only about 4 miles from the cabin.  There is a gas pump out front -- but again, gas is costly here.

One last comment on logistics.  Last night I ran out of fuel!  Luckily it was not 30 below zero outside.  The temperature was about 10 below and the cabin got to just under 50 degrees.  Chris brought 15 gallons this morning which should tide me over until I get a delivery on Friday.  

Leisure activities:

"Expresso Yourself"

This is an example of the drive-through coffee shacks that seem peculiar to Alaska.  There are a few in Fairbanks, but not nearly as many as Amanda and I saw in Anchorage.  Very convenient for coffee on a cold morning.  There are no drive-through Starbucks here.

 

 The "Arctic Daily Grind" -- another one near UAF

Much of my time is spent at the University of Alaska Fairbanks library -- the source of free internet access.  The sculpture above is a raven if you hadn't guessed.  Parking is somewhat of a problem but there are meters available (only $1.00 for 2 hours).  They are often full, however.

The Fairbanks North Star Borough Library is really very nice, and there is no charge for parking.  It is quite a bit farther from the cabin than the university but if I have to go into town I use the internet access here.  I also check out DVDs and books for entertainment.

Walking is a primary activity in Goldstream.  We have a pack of three (sometimes four) dogs that do a 3-mile circuit with us (me and Ann).   Chicken (left) and Duke are Ann's dogs.  They are ALWAYS ready for a walk.  We have gone as late as 11:15 pm.  This is the best way to see the northern lights.

... and this is Noly (my landlord Chris' dog).  

Around the cabin:  

Bird feeder as seen from the outside

View from inside the outhouse looking out ...

Tibetan Prayer Flags

A present from Ann, I have hung them along the path to the sauna.  "Tashi deleg" to all.

Winter birds

The birds below have been showing up around the cabin since January.  They are definitely increasing in numbers -- especially those that frequent the feeder tray.  They particularly like black oil sunflower seeds.

Raven in the snow

I have to admit to cheating a bit regarding the ravens.  They are more often found in downtown Fairbanks, at the trash transfer stations, or in parking lots (where this photo was taken).  They are extraordinary birds of symbolic importance in traditional legends of the indigenous indians.  I bought a life size raven puppet and have put it on the edge of the loft in the cabin.  Chris said it really scared him the first time he saw it.

Common redpolls (Carduelis flammea) are by far the most frequent visitors to the feeder.  It is fascinating to watch  the dynamics and interactions among these birds, and it is a true luxury to have the time to just sit by the window and observe them.  

A small group of redpolls 

Black capped chickadees (Poecile atricapilla) are the next most frequent visitors.

A Gray Jay (Perisoreus canadensis) in the snow

... and in a tree

A Hairy Woodpecker (Picoides villosus)

A female Spruce Grouse (Dendragapus canadensis)

... and a male displaying

This courtship took place just beneath my kitchen window at dusk in late January.

A Willow Ptarmigan (Lagopus lagopus) in the snow

Apparently, these birds will fly into a snowbank to sleep, thus not leaving a trail and thereby avoiding predators.

This is the sum total of my experience and knowledge of birds  resident in the great white north during the winter.  Watching the redpolls and chickadees flocking to the bird feeder never gets old.