Chena Hot Springs

Today (12/3) in Fairbanks the sun rose at 10:25 am and will set at 2:55 pm.  The length of the day will be 4 hours and 29 minutes.  We will continue to lose a few minutes a day until December 21st.  On the other hand, the moon is full and very bright.  With the reflection on the snow, nighttime can seem brighter than day.  Long shadows  on Willow Run Road Road are a little chilling.

Sunset at about 2:45 pm November 28th on Goldstream Road

Chena (pronounced Cheena) Hot Springs was discovered in 1905 and was a favorite with gold miners.  It is a natural outdoor hot springs with a temperature of 105 F in the rock lake pictured above.  Chena Hot Springs road, the only access, ends about 60 miles from Fairbanks at the Chena Hot Springs Resort.  

As you can see, with steam rising in the cold air, it is difficult to get a good photo.  It is quite magical to stand neck-deep in the lake with your hair frozen like a helmet above the surface.  

The spring is open from 7:00 am to midnight and is particularly lovely at night.  As the steam clears in the occasional breeze, you can see the moon and stars -- no northern lights on the night we were there, though.

It is a good idea to spend the night here as the 60-mile drive back to town is a challenge after soaking in the sulfuric waters for an hour or so.  I have done it both ways now and staying overnight is best. This is the reception area of the resort.

The dining room is rustic and has pretty good food -- also interesting drinks like the Nutty Alaskan and Aurora Borealis Martini.

The entire resort is powered using low temperature binary geothermal power generated from the hot springs.  For a description of the technology check out the following link

 http://www.popularmechanics.com/science/earth/4245896.html.  They operate a large greenhouse on the premises that produces all of the lettuce and tomatoes used in salads for the restaurant.  

Close-up of tomato plants

They produce the salad greens and tomatoes using hydroponics.  Fresh salads at -30 F in mid-winter alone are worth the trip.

They also have a year-round ice museum that was formerly known as the Ice Hotel.  There is a bar where they serve appletinis in ice martini glasses.

Crossing a bridge across this stream takes us to the sled-dog kennels

It is a toss-up whether sled-dog team or moose crossing signs are more prevalent around Fairbanks.  I think I have actually seen more sled-dog signs.

Here is a snow-covered sculpture of Balto -- the sled-dog who became famous in the serum run to Nome to fight the diphtheria epidemic in 1925.  The Iditarod commemorates this event.

The sled-dog kennel from a distance

 ... and close-up

This is Ernie, one of two goats at the hot springs resort.  The other one is in there too but it is kind of dark (I forgot his name but it might be Burt).  The staff claims these are the only non-productive elements of their operation.  A little hard to see in their igloo, but they are very cute.

A photo of the Alaska Range from (you guessed it) Ballaine Hill 10:00 am a few days ago.

The way back ...

The Aleutian Islands have been described as fog-bound and inhospitable.  After our enchanting 7 hours of (mostly) sun, it looked like this as we left.

We did see more whales -- both humpbacked and orcas.  It was interesting to have visited some of the webcam sites I had often viewed in the winter from Florida.  Dutch Ballyhoo is one site where the weather is frequently awesomely bad ...  Some of the webcams from Alaska are spectacular.  Check them out at http://akweathercams.faa.gov/sitelist.php 

Approaching Akutan

You may have noticed the absence of trees in the Aleutians.  With the exception of some stunted willows, the vast majority of the chain is destitute of native trees. This is because the islands and some of the sites on the Alaska Peninsula, much like the Falklands (Malvinas) and other islands of similar latitudes, experience such strong winds that taller trees are vulnerable to snapping off (Wikipedia).

Akutan has a population of 859.  The sign on the dock gives you some idea of the level of sophistication.  Don't get me wrong -- this is not a criticism.  I loved it.

Characteristic of many of these remote islands, there were two churches ...

 (one Russian Orthodox), a school, and a colorful bar.

On return to Cold Bay (where we were nearly left on the way out), the weather had improved and you can see the snow-covered peaks we missed on our earlier visit.

The interior of King Cove

The next stop on the Peninsula was King Cove (it was dark here on the way out).  King Cove is the home of the Girls' volleyball team that saved us from being left at Cold Bay.  Their trip to Dutch Harbor was successful as they won 2 of their 3 games.  I got to know the 3 teachers on the trip and they graciously drove me around to see some of the sites during the hour the ferry stopped here.  

We drove out to the airport passing serene vistas on the way.  Waterfalls ...

 valleys, and ...

 a stunning lake.

The only trees in King Cove (this is where the teachers live).

They pointed out the amazing juxtaposition of these signs -- showing me where the bears come up a depression right next to this store.

The ferry as we drove back towards the port.

The weather had also improved when we visited Chignik again -- more beautiful scenery.

It is not possible to capture the grandeur of some of these sites in photos.  In a way it is wonderful that they are so remote and, thus, less developed and infrequently visited (although the residents may not all feel that way).

A friendly resident of Chignik with Bob (a fellow traveler from Homer).

A view of the port of Chignik as we head back toward Kodiak and then Homer.

Getting close to Homer we began to see more boats in the water.

Approaching the docks at Homer ...

and finally, a view of Bishop's Beach at the end of the journey.

Unalaska and Dutch Harbor

Unalaska is situated on two separate islands in the Aleutian Chain -- Unalaska Island and Amaknak Island.  Dutch Harbor, on Amaknak, is a major commercial fishing port and probably more well- known for the Discovery Channel's reality show The Deadliest Catch.  The islands are located where the Pacific Ocean and the Bering Sea meet, and The Bridge to the Other Side joins them.  

To see a beautiful picture of Unalaska in the snow (and obtain more information about this remote location) check out the city's link http://unalaska-ak.us/.  The ferry runs once a month between mid-April and the first week in October from Homer to Dutch Harbor. Transportation otherwise is by plane with a one way ticket to Anchorage costing upwards of $690.00.  You definitely wouldn't want to get stuck out there.

Seven hours is not really long enough to explore this extraordinary place but with a good guide you can hit many of the highlights.  The drive along the Unalaskan coast was rich with both sea and bird life.  We saw sea otters, seals, and cormorants in relatively large numbers.

A view of the airstrip

A characteristic scene in Unalaska with the ubiquitous crab pots in the foreground.

Snow-covered peaks as seen from the Unalaska side

The Sitka Spruce Park

The Russians planted Sitka Spruce in 1805 along Biorka Drive.  These tall gnarly trees are said to be originals.  It is supposedly the oldest recorded afforestation project in North America.

Concrete pillbox ...

According to The Lonely Planet Guide, Unalaska and Dutch Harbor can be characterized by two things as you leave the ferry terminal:  Concrete pillboxes from World War II, and ...

Crab pots

You do see a lot of both, but the king crab fishing industry has declined considerably over the past 20 years or so.  More than 80% of seafood currently processed here is pollack.  For those of you who don't know, pollack is turned into fish sticks and imitation crab in the fish processing plants on the island.  

Here, for fans, is one of the boats that compete in The Deadliest Catch TV series.  The Cornelia Marie was the favorite of the teachers we were with at Cold Bay (you know, the ones with us on the bus when we were nearly left by the ferry).  They were all really into the TV show.  (There is not, I might add, a lot to do in these places.)

Close-up of the Cornelia Marie

Mt. Ballyhoo

Mt. Ballyhoo is home to the highest coastal battery ever constructed in the US -- nearly 1,000 ft above the Bering Sea.  There are a lot of concrete observation posts, command stations, tunnels and other structures built to withstand earthquakes and 100 mph winds.

I was really more interested in the spectacular views from the top of this mountain, however.  Believe it or not, we saw humpback whales spouting (with binoculars, of course) -- but these were my first whales.  The setting was magnificent!

 

The view of the harbor on the way down from Mt. Ballyhoo.

Church of the Holy Ascension

This is the oldest Russian-built church still standing in Alaska.  It was built in 1825 and enlarged in 1894.  We were fortunate in being able to visit the church but photos were not allowed inside.  It was rich with beautiful icons and artwork.

Close-up view of the church

The small graveyard adjacent to the church.

The drive up the coast of Unalaska.

... heading back toward Akutan

I loved this place -- it is somewhere I could consider living for awhile (maybe working in a fish processing plant).  We were very fortunate to have such good weather in October -- apparently it is rather rare.  I would like to send a warm welcome to Unalaska Newbie who has listed herself as a follower.  I hope I have done Unalaska and Dutch Harbor justice even though we were only there seven hours.  Any feedback would be appreciated. 

The next post will be the way back ...